The Pageantry of December & January

December, 2016: One of the biggest and most colorful celebrations of the year is Pase del Niño, a Christmas Eve Pageant held all day long through the streets of Cuenca. With its colors, indigenous dress of all kinds, and everyone participating…babies, grandparents, horses and sheep it is not to be missed I was told soon after I arrived this past summer!

The event is named for a Christ Child Statue, El Nino Viajero (Traveler) that was brought from Rome to Ecuador. Many Christ Child statues of all kinds are then walked through the streets of El Centro (The Center of Cuenca) with marching bands, dancers, and people eager to have you take their pictures! This is how they spend their Noche Buena (Christmas Eve).

But a week before, individual families have their own Pase del Niño, and it is to one of these I was invited! They walk and have floats through their own neighborhoods (barrios) as well. Months before my Ecuadorian neighbors (vecinos) told me I would be invited by their family, and there were 150 of them present that day ranging in age from 6 months to 92! They all attend (and I, the only gringa!)

Speaking of dress, I became  “La Chola Cuencana” with some of the other women as you will see in the photos below! It is an indigenous dress from the province of Azuay of which Cuenca is a part. The pollera (skirt) is very special and heavy because of the hand beading. The blusa (blouse) is white and has a lovely hand embroidery. The chal (shawl) is only worn for El Pase; typically, another shawl is worn other days. The sombrero (hat) is special, too, as it is decorated with cinta con perla (ribbon with pearls) and a lazo (braid) that hangs down the back. The alpargatas (espadrille shoes) match the outfit.

And all this I learned from my vecinos (when I went to rent the outfit for the day at a store in walking distance from my home) and my Spanish instructor in my weekly lessons! It is also another reason I enjoy living in an area where there are more Equatorianos! After El Pase the family has a big feast of hornado (roast pig) papas (potatoes) arroz (rice) and mote (corn) and the passing around of chicha, a fermented drink made from corn and other grains and even roots like yucca!

January, 2017: On New Year’s Eve. I got to participate with an Ecuadorian family at midnight in the burning of effigies that look a lot like scarecrows stuffed with newspaper and dressed in old clothes. Masks are sold to add a final touch to your effigy. It is a ritual performed throughout South America and Cuenca participates whole heartedly with fireworks galore, also! The burning of effigies that you buy or make (I bought one shown in one of the photos below) releases “los años viejos” (the old years) and any bad you wish to release of the past to be ready to welcome the new.

A Happy, Healthy, Prosperous New Year 2017 to All of You!

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Chola Cuencanas and other traditional dress in the Granda Family Pase

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The detail on la pollera (skirt)

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The Granda Family’s Pase (and a stop in the parade to dance!)

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Pase del Niño, Cuenca

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My Effigy and Me

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With several effigies about to be burned at midnight

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All Four Effigies Burning at Midnight

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All ashes…a scene throughout the city!

Enjoying Special Celebrations– Cuenca!

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Festival de Luces

photos Linda Sorrento c. 2016

Cuenca, Ecuador, has almost continuous celebrations from November through January–and I am about to experience them all! Tres de Noviembre (the Third of November) is the joyous celebration of Cuenca’s Independence Day…think 4th of July and art festivals combined for a 5 day celebration of talented artisans, food, music, and, yes, daily fireworks! Many of the streets fly the city flag of Cuenca for a month, and streets like Tres de Noviembre are named after significant events. Some people living here say it is one of their favorite holidays of the year.

El Festival de Luces (Festival of Lights) is one of the most beautiful of events to start the Christmas season. This year it was held in Santo Domingo Plaza in el Centro (the center of town). The collage captures the luminarias and the placement of them into beautiful shapes (and even words) outside the church. It’s also a time for song…the children first and then later a marching band and chamber music.It is a several hour event with families and friends talking or getting acquainted and taking photos.

May your holidays be filled with peace, joy, and the love of friends and family.

Merry Christmas, Happy Holidays, and A Happy, Healthy New Year!

Peace,

Linda

Ecuador…More Welcome Surprises!

In July of this year I moved to Ecuador to have the experience of living in another country rather than just being a tourist! As we got close to what was the end of the trip from the Guayaquil airport, I looked at the lovely red tiled homes in the Andes and said to myself, “I could live here!” When I asked one of the other passengers on the van what town this actually was, she said, “This is Cuenca!” I knew I had found my new home. And so was the start of my living here, a town of about a half million people at 8200 ft. or 2500 meters in South America. What a journey! The beautiful clouds and mountains remind me of the Rocky Mountain West in some ways except with a very temperate climate of year round spring and 12 hours of daylight and 12 hours of night every day! There is a kind of rhythm, I find, to that kind of day.But there have been more surprises since I arrived three months ago–many of them cultural: The genuine welcome and support of the expat community, which is estimated to be from 8,000 to 10,000 people from all over the world, but principally, the U.S. Here the locals refer to retirees as “Tercer Edad,” or the The Third Age: It has a nicer ring to it IMHO than “Senior Citizen” or even “Golden Years.”There are also times I feel like I’ve enrolled in an Adult Day Camp as there is so much to do! I was aware of some of these activities prior to my arrival through the network of people I knew here, but experiencing it all first hand is another welcome surprise.

The Ecuadorian culture is a warm and welcoming one—your landlady (duena de casa) is likely to give you an air kiss and hug when you pay your rent. And instructors and even the meseros (waiters) who often recognize you after one visit and may even remember your name, greet you this way! It’s not uncommon to see the Ecuatorianos themselves offer each other these greetings, and you can witness this while walking in town (El Centro) or even while waiting to recharge your cell phone at one of the phone companies here.

And then there is the study of the Spanish language. Here the language is clear and kind of musical.

I decided to immerse myself in two different local language schools for a total of 13 hours a week of language study these past few weeks (not including homework or “tarea!”) Both schools are excellent, and it’s been delightful, and challenging, too! The locals seem genuinely happy you are learning their language and are happy to tell you that. They are patient as you search for the right word or verb tense!

This past week one of the language schools had a photo/essay contest (concurso). There were about 30 entries in all. I placed 5th (another welcome surprise or sorpresa!) and was awarded a dinner for two at a local restaurant for my photo of a sea lion (leon marino) in the Galapagos. The photo had to be of Ecuador, and the accompanying essay 200 words for the Intermediate 1 class I’m attending. Language learning, I find, stretches me in a good way and enriches daily interactions, and while it’s not “pan comido” (a piece of cake) it seems generally “vale la pena” (worth the pain!)

Speaking of cake, the Ecuatorianos love their sweets—lots of ice cream places here, too, and some of their “postres” or desserts are works of art!

I’ve included some photos of their postres, also some of our recent hikes, and the award winning photo of the sea lion below.

Todo Bien! (All is Well!)

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Postres in Ecuador

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Passion Fruit Cheesecake with Ice Cream (Helado)
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Toreadora, Cajas NP

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Toreadora, Cajas NP

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Toreadora, Cajas NP

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Toreadora, Cajas NP

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Leon Marino (Sea Lion) Photo placed 5th in local contest in Ecuador at Spanish Coffee Club

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Yours truly with the leon marino (sea lion) in 2006 trip to The Galapagos!

 

Ecuador!

“Buen provecho” strangers in restaurants here remark as they quickly pass your table in a restaurant, “Enjoy Your Meal!” It’s a customary greeting, with friends and strangers alike, in this South American country the size of Colorado. It’s also one of the many “sorpresas” or surprises in this small country that has such variety: beaches, mountains, the headwaters of the Amazon, and the unique Galapagos Islands.

Ten years ago, I visited here and was struck by the beauty of the landscape. This past July I moved here…with 4 suitcases…to fulfill a long-held dream of living in and not just visiting, another country. It is a wonderful choice. On the equator, from which the country gets its name, it is forever spring in Cuenca, a lovely Old World Colonial City that sits at a little over 8,000 feet in the Andes, and is a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

The weather and the experiences seem to suit me: I’m immersing myself in Spanish language classes, and while it’s true that the locals appreciate any efforts made at communicating in their language, I know the experience will be richer the more I learn. There are so many things to do here –free symphony concerts, music with performers visiting from all over the world, artisan centers, classes of all kinds, and a strong expat community that is both welcoming and supportive. There are a lot of treasures to discover here, and I expect the adventure is a central part of the experience of it all.

Here are some photos of the hikes I’ve taken…from the local walks through small villages with a chance to have almuerzo (lunch) and meet the local Ecuadorian and indigenous people to the beauty of one of the most popular National Parks, El Cajas, in the Southern Sierras.

Todo Bien! (All is Well!)

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Retama…a beautiful flower which often finds its way on pottery designs…see next photo!

Here is the flower (retama) on the pottery by E. Vega, renowed potter, Cuenca

Here is the flower (retama) on the pottery by E. Vega, renowed potter, Cuenca

Cuenca overlook the day we hiked to Baguanchi area outside the city

Cuenca overlook the day we hiked to Baguanchi area outside the city

Indigenous woman of Ecuador with dog on one of our hikes

Indigenous woman of Ecuador with dog on one of our hikes

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Rural Hike SigSig to Gualeco (8 miles) with two new hiking friends (just for the day!)

Views on the rural hike

Views on the rural hike

Part of the hiking trails pass villagers' homes

Part of the hiking trails pass villagers’ homes

Rural Hike SigSig to Gualeco

Rural Hike SigSig to Gualeco

Rural Hike SigSig to Gualeco

Rural Hike SigSig to Gualeco

This is part of the trail in Cajas NP

This is part of the trail in Cajas NP

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Cajas NP

Looks like paintbrush in Colorado...

Looks like paintbrush in Colorado…

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Hummingbird–lots of them in Ecuador! Larger than in the US…this one flew right in front of us!

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Cajas National Park

Cajas National Park

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Cajas NP

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Cajas National Park

Cajas National Park

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Llamas in Cajas NP

Llamas in Cajas NP

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Cajas National Park

Cajas National Park

On the way out of the park...

On the way out of the park…

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Cajas NP

On a cobblestone road out of the National Park

On a cobblestone road out of the National Park

Australia

The Twelve Apostles, Great Ocean Road, Australia

China

Lace Umbrellas

Meili Snow Mountain, One of the sacred mountains to the Tibetans

Yunnan Province, China. Photo by Arlen Cwir

The Middle East

www.lindasorrentoimages.com

Bhutan

From an email to Friends from Bhutan, April, 2008

Kuzugampola (Hello in Bhutanese) Friends!

Ever since I saw a PBS special on Bhutan (The Land of the Thunder Dragon) some years ago, I wanted to visit here. It is a magical place, often called the last Shangri La, for the beauty of its mountains and valleys. Often it looks like a story book picture! It’s about the size of Switzerland and about a half million people. Apparently, they said they were a million so they could get into the UN, but then, given their sense of humor (truly!) and that census counts are not accurate…Bhutan is nestled between China and India and has four climate zones, from cold in the Himalayan north to tropical in the very south. We were in the central, temperate region. It was lovely spring-like weather.

We had a 9 hour ride on the “Lateral Road” the only road in the country. We started in Paro where the airport is (two planes blessed by their monks called Druk (Dragon) Air). We arrived in Thimpu, the only capital without a traffic light…I have a photo of the one police officer directing traffic. They tried a traffic light (yes, one) and didn’t like it so they got rid of it!

The feel of this country is unbelievable…wonderfully friendly and hospitable people with the men dressed in traditional “ghos” a komono-type outfit and the women in long skirts of beautiful hand woven fabric. The Bhutanese are a handsome people! You may have seen the news on Bhutan’s recent elections as they moved to a constitutional monarchy. It is an interesting time for Bhutan, this Buddhist Kingdom coming into the 21st Century. Their new King, who at 27 is as revered as his father, will be coronated this year. The King’s Father is married to 4 sisters (apparently, one said no!) But having more than one wife or husband is not uncommon in Bhutan.

(Note: In fact the King is now 31, the youngest reigning King, and was just married in 2011. The new Queen, a commoner and 21 years old, is as beautiful as he is handsome!)

Today is our last day (of 11) in Bhutan (internet was not always available on the trip) and did they ever save the best for last! We hiked to Tiger’s Nest Monastery
nestled on the edge of a cliff. It is a trip that, like Mecca, they would like the Buddhists here to do at least once in their lifetime. It is about a 3 hour hike up and is a beautiful one on a good trail with lots of steps in places. Several beautiful viewing points as the rhododendrun are in bloom. Set with the the prayer flags, it is a stunning setting.

Young Monks, Bhutan

TAKTSHANG (The Tigers Nest Monastery), Bhutan

Ura Yackchoe Festival, Bhutan

Bhutan: Book Recommendations

I got the Lonely Planet Bhutan book (there weren’t many to choose from when I went I 2008, but I found it a good choice. Check around and see what you like). It gave a good history of Buddhism, I thought.
I went with a company in Boulder called Asia Transpacific Journeys.

Several books I’d recommend are:
So Close to Heaven, The Vanishing Kingdoms of the Himalayas, by Barbara Crossette–lots of history and will give you some context. Great writer.

Beyond the Sky and the Earth, a Journey into Bhutan, Jamie Zeppa; a Canadian who taught in Bhutan and then married one of her students. The marriage didn’t last, but the story of her experiences being in the culture is interesting.

Treasures of the Thunder Dragon by Ashi Dorji Wangmo Whangchuck who was one of the previous Queens–travelogue and memoir. I got a library copy. I loved this book, too.

The Circle of Karma by Kunzang Choden (daily life and rituals from a woman’s perspective)

The Geography of Bliss, c. 2008. One more book that has a chapter on Bhutan and is just a great travel read. It’s written by NPR Correspondent, Eric Weiner:

A few DVDs:

Travellers & Magicians (Jamie Zeppa’s (see book above) Bhutanese husband is one of the actors.
The Cup (about Bhutanese monks and soccer)

I loved Tiger’s Nest (Taktshang). Do not be discouraged by guidebooks that say it is difficult. It isn’t. There is a path all along the way with lots of people.

Make sure you get to a Festival…anywhere. They are worth seeing and have a good blend of the sacred and the profane. Great photo opps, too.There is one main road that goes across the country and some of the highlights are: Paro, Thimpu, Punakha, and Trongsa. The architecture is lovely as are the people. Happy Travels. If you go to Bhutan, enjoy—I know you will. If you decide to arm chair travel this one, these books and DVDs should be a good start!

PS One book I read several years after my trip: It’s called Married to Bhutan, How One Woman Got Lost, Said “I Do” and Found Bliss, by Linda Leaming, a published writer, who apparently is mentioned in the Geography of Bliss book. She talks a lot about the culture and places. So it’s very thoughtful and chock-full of well-written information. The author lives there now (she’s American).

Vietnam

Ha Long Bay, Vietnam

Hanoi, Vietnam

 

Thailand

I have been (happily) to Thailand on three occasions…here are notes from an April, 2008 email to friends and the only time I’ve been there in the spring of the year…read how they celebrate their New Year! This was a happier time for the Thais,  before the recent floods of 2011, the worst in 50 years…

Today I arrived in Bangkok about an hour by plane from Chiang Mai, the city in the north where I have been staying since I arrived on Feb. 22nd. Bangkok has a new airport…quite nice on the design, and I understand it is the biggest airport!

It is the Thai New Year, a 3 day riotous celebration April 13 – 15, revolving around going home to see family, respect for elders, Buddha and water splashing (read drenching) to celebrate the arrival of the spring harvest season. It is a sacred and secular holiday time. Most people have off from work.

It’s called Songkran, a Sanskrit word describing the change in the astrological signs from Pisces to Aries. (I thought Pisces was the water sign! But “Ma Pen Rai, “never mind” as they say in Thai). It signals the New Year. They do celebrate Jan. 1, but this is a more auspicious holiday for them. Yes, I got splashed, and that is considered a sign of good luck. They love to “get ” the farangs (foreigners).
The kids and adults ,armed with power water guns, have a good time,and it’s a good way to cool off from the heat; but there has been negative press because of traffic fatalities. A little too much celebrating. I stayed out of harm’s way and watched some from the 3rd floor of the guest house.

Tomorrow I leave for Bhutan for 11 days where we will be at a minimum of 4000ft. altitude (and up to 10, 000). This is the last of the independent Buddhist Kingdoms. It should be spectacular. I had this trip in mind ever since I saw a PBS special about 10 years ago. And so the seed was planted!

Me and My Shadow, Thailand

Water on Leaf, Thailand